I packed up and we headed off to Rocher Guichot to warm up, since it’s right by the car park in Vaudoue – about a 30 second walk in. We pottered round some of the red circuit between drinking tea and napping in the sun. It was too hot to try anything hard really, so we were just killing time until the sun started to drop and the cooler evening temps kicked in, at which point we headed over to Cuvier Rempart.
The plan was to quickly despatch 'Duroxmanie' before heading over for another session on Noir Desir, but it didn’t quite go down like that. I made a couple of changes to the sequence i’d been using in November, but it still wasn’t easy going. It’s quite powerful and fingery climbing with a bit fat sloper to top out on. I’d fallen pretty hard from this a couple of times in the autumn, and although it’s not really highball, if you don’t get over the top of the sloper you’re coming off backwards, which is what happened again this time. Not to be deterred, initially, I kept at it and was getting up to the last move regularly, but just couldn’t make myself slap for the top again, and I didn’t really have enough left in the tank to just overpower it. Another one to go back to. It should go down next time though. On the upside, I tried the moves on the direct start, which didn’t seem too much of a problem, so hopefully when I get the last move sorted there’s two ticks to be had!
We moved on to Noir Desir, armed with an extra pad this time, although to really give it your all I think a spotter will be needed. I sussed out the next move on the left-hand variant, so there’s just one more move to get sorted and it’ll be time to start trying to link it. I reckon it’ll be the crux move though, so don’t hold your breath.
Like I said before Rempart is a beautiful spot, and it felt great spending the evening trying this brilliant problem whilst watching the sun go down. Happy days.
This morning brought cloud but it was still dry so, feeling pretty trashed from yesterday I dragged myself up to Gorge aux Chats. I stretched out a bit and went to work on 'Sa Pelle au Logis', which i’ve never really tried before, but for a brief look last year sometime. At the time I couldn’t figure out how to get out of the cave, but i’ve got it all sussed now, just need to link it.
I wandered round for a crack at 'Rubis sur l’Ongle', which I felt like i’d made surprising progress on back in November, and I was pleased to find myself back at my high point on my second attempt today. Unfortunately the crux hadn’t got much easier, but I did feel a lot stronger on it than before and almost latched the next hold a couple of times. I seemed to be going up a lot more square-on than before, and was using my toe to pull in to the rock rather than just rocking over on it. Still some way to go on this though.
I seem to be using the word ‘progress’ annoyingly often on this blog. I feel like I should be using the word ‘done’ a lot more. I guess it’s just because everything i’ve been trying has been hard, if not slightly beyond me. Maybe i’m grade chasing a bit, but mostly the problems i’m working are ones that i’ve chosen due to their quality too. I don’t really know, but i’m having fun trying them, and that’s the main thing really. Hopefully it will all come together over the next few weeks and i’ll move into ‘crush’ mode. Hopefully.
Anyway, just looking forward to tomorrow now, as Steph’s over for the weekend – Whoop! Whoop! – a friend at last! Can’t wait!
And if the weather holds out for a few more days we might even get something ‘done’!
No comments:
Post a Comment