The showers that arrived on Saturday stayed with us into Sunday, but given the need for another rest day I wasn’t too bothered. There’s nothing worse than having to give up a fair-weather day due the exertions of the day before. So I just sat around the gite trying to grow some more skin.
Monday seemed to have brought some brighter weather... until the moment I stepped out of the car at Dame Jouanne. I’d walked down to Buthiers from Maisonbleau on Sunday evening to have a look about and found ‘Magic Bus’ a low roof problem that appeared to be sheltered from the rain for all but the finishing jug, and thought i’d keep it in mind as a wet-weather problem. So I turned around and drove back to Buthiers from Dame Jouanne, and managed to warm up on a couple of damp, but easy enough problems, before heading over to Magic Bus. It’s a very cruxy problem, starting on huge undercuts and finishing on big flattys and jugs, just one hard move to get between the two. I just couldn’t seem to figure it out though, so after a couple of hours with little progress being made, and with regular hail-showers between short sunny spells I sacked it off.
This morning I didn’t even bother getting up until midday as the sound of rain drumming on the windows all night had crushed any ideas of getting out today. Chatting to Neil I picked up a bit of beta on Magic Bus – a thumb-catch coupled with a drop knee may help with the next attempt, but I don’t think i’ll be rushing back to try it until the next rainy day. He also seemed to think that things’ll be brightening up again from tomorrow, so i’m keeping my fingers crossed on that front, and hopefully i’ll have some climbing to blog about tomorrow.
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I love the pictures, it's good to see that Mr Potatohead is enjoying a well earned holiday. Don't really understand what you have written though. Can I suggest the provision of a short summary each day for non-climbers?
ReplyDeleteClaire and Ant x
Heehee! Yep, for the unseasoned climber an uber cruxy problem with a powerful throw out to a flatty (but it's ok because a thumb sprag and a drop knee might help) followed by a cruise on jugs to the top, doesn't make much sense really! Might aswell write the blog in japenese! xx
ReplyDeleteLove the fact that Mr Potato Head can cook. Hadn't realised.