I’d bumped into Neil last night on my way down to post the last blog and after giving me a bit of beta on Serenite (take some spotters and a bit of commitment), he offered to show me round Les Beorlots today. I’d been up to take a look at Katioushka a week or so back, but hadn’t fancied hiking another 2km to go and find the main area, so I jumped at the chance to grab some local knowledge, particularly as he mentioned a secret parking spot that cuts the walk-in down to about 500 yards!
So, this morning I dragged myself up fairly early and after a bit of trouble keeping up with Neil round the country roads we were walking in ready to crush.
The area has only been opened up fairly recently and is still being developed. There are quite a few problems that have been done since the latest 7+8’s guide came out and in fact there was a new dyno that Kevin Lopata had added just yesterday, which explained Neil’s eagerness to come here – he’s a big fan of dyno problems.
We warmed up a bit on a problem called ‘Don’t take the Bonsai’ (unfortunately somebody has, as Neil pointed out that the miniature tree that was perched on top had disappeared), and I nearly did it second go, but couldn’t quite drag myself over the top.
We then started to look at ‘Mickey Mousse’. I’d checked out some video footage last night for beta, but it’s hard to remember such things until you’re actually familiar with the piece of rock. Having looked back now there’s a couple of things that perhaps would’ve helped, but to be honest it was right in the midday sun which wasn’t helping matters, so we’ll have to return when it’s a bit cooler for another crack. It’s a really good looking problem though, worth going back for.
After a non-starter on a slopey arête problem round to the right, I decided I had to finish off Don’t take the Bonsai and after a couple of goes flailed my way up and over the top, leaving the pair of us in stitches.
The dyno that Kevin had done yesterday looked rank, even to Neil, so we moved on to another cluster of boulders, and a problem called ‘Salathe’. The line laybacks up a big crack, with your feet pasted on smears, a bit of tricky footwork and some body-tension to stop the barn-door and latch the good hold on top, as Neil demonstrated. I was getting close, but was losing a fair bit of skin every time i peeled off, so I decided to leave it for another day before I went through my tips.
Neil had his eye on a problem round the corner called ‘Mort Sur’ which he nearly flashed. He got it second go, and then repeated it for the camera in good style. I had a quick go, but couldn’t reach the good finishing holds with my heel still locked in under the roof, as Neil had done, and decided it wasn’t for me.
There was some rustling in the bushes nearby, and Neil quickly grabbed his camera, as he’s still trying to get a boar sighting on film. But whatever it was must have heard us and disappeared sharpish, as nothing appeared. So we moved on again, looking over our shoulders as we went.
‘74% Cacao’ is one of the problems that has made it into the guidebook. It’s a roofy problem on some big slopers and undercuts that uses a knee-bar and a slightly scary heel-toe to top out.
Neil ran me through moves including a choice of two knee-bars, one for the shorties and one for the lanks, and I pulled on from the start. I surprised myself by getting right through to the knee-bar move (I think I took the shorties option), first go and thought for a second that I might flash it. But I screwed up the heel toe and bailed off. After a couple more unsuccessful attempts I was slapping at the top holds and Neil was pointing out the foot placement I needed to get over. He’d warned me not to screw up the top-out earlier, but the finishing hold looked like a jug from below. It wasn’t quite as good as i’d thought though and it was a desperate struggle to eventually haul myself over. Another ungraceful top-out, but a top-out all the same!
With energy, skin and time running out, as Neil had to head off to pick up the little man from school, we went to look at one last boulder.
As Neil was talking me through the moves though, he noticed that the huge jug that you (used to) use to pull round the lip of the roof, was lying unattached on the floor.
There’s still a pretty decent jug left further back, but it might make it a little harder to pull through. Either way, after a couple of attempts I was feeling totally trashed and decided to call it a day.
So as Neil headed off to pick up his son, I headed back to the gite to kick back on the patio with a beer and some serious grit-rash. Another good day.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Monday, March 16, 2009
On Sunday morning we awoke to clear blue skies and aching muscles and after a quick breakfast we packed up and headed out.
Steph was eager to go back to Sa Pelle au Logis and get it ticked, but after working so hard on Saturday she just wasn’t feeling fresh enough. It’s going to have to wait for a few weeks i’m afraid.
So, we drove round to a packed Cuvier, and headed off to Duroxmanie, which thankfully was in the shade, as it was getting pretty warm. I wasn’t expecting to get too far on my first go, as despite knowing the moves they still feel hard and fingery to me. But suddenly I was back at the top and knowing that Steph was right behind me just reached up high and fairly casually latched the ‘brained’ sloper to top it out. Not bad considering it was the first bit of rock i’d touched so far that day!
I had another look at the direct start, which for some reason felt savagely hard compared to the other day. Still, I was more than happy with the weekends tally, so perhaps i’ll go back to it another time.
We wandered up to Rempart for a spot of lunch, and to show Steph Noir Desir. It’s a problem that gets all the sun going though and the crux sloper was feeling way too greasy for it to be worthwhile trying, so we decided to find something else to play on.
Steph had been working on ‘Beatle juice’ a problem at Franchard Cusiniere, last year, so we headed off for another look.
She’s definitely looking stronger on it now, and what was previously looking slightly out of reach for her, is now looking a lot more achievable. It might take a couple of trips to get it all linked up, but it’s another one i’m sure she can do. Her training is paying off for sure.
All too quickly though, our weekend together drew to a close and we had to head back to the airport for Steph to catch her flight home. I drove back to Maisonbleau, feeling slightly subdued and thoroughly shattered after what has been a brilliant weekend. So thanks again Steph, and keep up the training – you’re looking strong!
This morning I took a well deserved lie in and then spent some time doing some household chores. It was another hot one today, so after lounging around in the heat of the afternoon, I headed out with a few hours of daylight remaining, to go and check out a new area. The hunt for new projects continues!
Coquibus Rumont is an a small area only recently developed. There’s a couple of problems mentioned in the 7+8’s guide that take a line up the left side of a big prow, that I was keen to check out, and I wasn’t to be disappointed. ‘Serenite’ is the name of the problem. It’s quite cruxy, with the moves past a small crimp providing most of the difficulty, but it’s a really cool line. There’s a hard problem round the other side called ‘Conviction’ (which I think Tim might like to take a look at in April if he gets the chance), and wandering round to look at this I suddenly recognised the piece of rock I was standing under, and that all these problems are dwarfed by. It was ‘The Island’ - Dave Graham’s Font 8C test-piece. I can confirm that there are starting holds, and finishing holds, but there’s a whole lot of blank looking, upside-down, compression moves to be done between the two. It was chalked up too, and it wouldn’t surprise me if Tyler’s been working this recently. Maybe we’ll find out soon, as he’s certainly in-form at the moment, and he’s only here for another couple of weeks.
Anyway, after a quick play on Serenite, a gawp at The Island, and watching a stunning sunset from the hilltop, i’m back at the gite, beer in hand, looking forward to another great day in the forest.
Steph was eager to go back to Sa Pelle au Logis and get it ticked, but after working so hard on Saturday she just wasn’t feeling fresh enough. It’s going to have to wait for a few weeks i’m afraid.
So, we drove round to a packed Cuvier, and headed off to Duroxmanie, which thankfully was in the shade, as it was getting pretty warm. I wasn’t expecting to get too far on my first go, as despite knowing the moves they still feel hard and fingery to me. But suddenly I was back at the top and knowing that Steph was right behind me just reached up high and fairly casually latched the ‘brained’ sloper to top it out. Not bad considering it was the first bit of rock i’d touched so far that day!
I had another look at the direct start, which for some reason felt savagely hard compared to the other day. Still, I was more than happy with the weekends tally, so perhaps i’ll go back to it another time.
We wandered up to Rempart for a spot of lunch, and to show Steph Noir Desir. It’s a problem that gets all the sun going though and the crux sloper was feeling way too greasy for it to be worthwhile trying, so we decided to find something else to play on.
Steph had been working on ‘Beatle juice’ a problem at Franchard Cusiniere, last year, so we headed off for another look.
She’s definitely looking stronger on it now, and what was previously looking slightly out of reach for her, is now looking a lot more achievable. It might take a couple of trips to get it all linked up, but it’s another one i’m sure she can do. Her training is paying off for sure.
All too quickly though, our weekend together drew to a close and we had to head back to the airport for Steph to catch her flight home. I drove back to Maisonbleau, feeling slightly subdued and thoroughly shattered after what has been a brilliant weekend. So thanks again Steph, and keep up the training – you’re looking strong!
This morning I took a well deserved lie in and then spent some time doing some household chores. It was another hot one today, so after lounging around in the heat of the afternoon, I headed out with a few hours of daylight remaining, to go and check out a new area. The hunt for new projects continues!
Coquibus Rumont is an a small area only recently developed. There’s a couple of problems mentioned in the 7+8’s guide that take a line up the left side of a big prow, that I was keen to check out, and I wasn’t to be disappointed. ‘Serenite’ is the name of the problem. It’s quite cruxy, with the moves past a small crimp providing most of the difficulty, but it’s a really cool line. There’s a hard problem round the other side called ‘Conviction’ (which I think Tim might like to take a look at in April if he gets the chance), and wandering round to look at this I suddenly recognised the piece of rock I was standing under, and that all these problems are dwarfed by. It was ‘The Island’ - Dave Graham’s Font 8C test-piece. I can confirm that there are starting holds, and finishing holds, but there’s a whole lot of blank looking, upside-down, compression moves to be done between the two. It was chalked up too, and it wouldn’t surprise me if Tyler’s been working this recently. Maybe we’ll find out soon, as he’s certainly in-form at the moment, and he’s only here for another couple of weeks.
Anyway, after a quick play on Serenite, a gawp at The Island, and watching a stunning sunset from the hilltop, i’m back at the gite, beer in hand, looking forward to another great day in the forest.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Three in a day!
After picking up some supplies yesterday morning, I jumped in the car and headed off to meet Steph at the airport. Her flight had been delayed a bit, which gave me just enough time to make it round the Boulevard Peripherique and up to Charles de Gaulle after missing the right turn off.
I’ve been to some of Europe’s major airports before, but my god, CDG is a city in its own right! Maybe I should’ve checked which terminal she was flying into, coz the place is MASSIVE. After a few rushed texts and phone calls, I finally found her (at the departures drop-off point), and we headed back in time for a quick session at Gorge au Chat, as Steph wanted to hit rock asap and check out the beta on Sa Pelle au Logis.
Fair’s fair, so after I showed her how to get out of the cave, she pointed out a much easier and less powerful way to do the last move, and by the time dark set in we were both pretty psyched to go back in the morning and get it ‘done’.
After a steak dinner, a few beers, and a one armer demo from Mr P, (see the gallery), we hit the sack with an early start in mind – eek!
Given that Steph’s a fan of the ‘Dave Birkett warm-up’ we were straight back to Gorge au Chat and after some fine-tuning, into redpoint mode. Steph’s first go saw her agonisingly close to topping it out, but unfortunately it wasn’t to be today. She’s got it wired though, and it’s purely a matter of time before she sends it now.
After a few false starts myself, I surprised myself by getting to the finishing holds without once feeling fully in control. ‘Tis just the way it seems – sends either feel like a walk in the park, or desperate all the way... and this one was definitely one of the latter! I topped it out though and was well chuffed with my second proper tick of the trip so far. Amazing what a difference it makes having someone to work a problem with.
I’d noticed on Bleau.info the other day that there’s another problem on this block, where you traverse in from the right and take the same finish as Sa Pelle au Logis, ‘Variaspal’. So, after a spending a while figuring the start out, I followed up with the second tick of the day. Awesome!
We were both feeling a bit bushed by now, so we decided to take a stroll up to Rocher Fin, for Steph to have a crack at Memoire d’Outre Tombe, and for me to have another go at the problem opposite – ‘le Nain Vert Sait’.
Steph did really well on Memoire... a problem that felt a little out of reach for her last year, finding that little extra stretch, and getting all the other moves sussed too.
She’ll be back to get this one linked in April for sure (she sends her apologies BTW for sporting the climbing boots and socks look! It's an ankle –scraper, so kinda necessary. Function over fashion, for reeal ayyight).
Mr P had a real good crack too, but he nearly had his chips as he attempted the slopey top out!
After a halting start on le Nain Vert Sait, finding it impossible to get off the ground on the problem that had felt so do-able the other day, I suddenly cracked it, and found myself desperately slapping at the finishing holds and topping it out with all the style of a beached whale. Still, a tick is a tick is a tick. And today i’ve managed to bag myself three Font 7a’s! My most successful day’s climbing ever I reckon, and it’s really cool that I got to share it with Steph, i’m not sure any of ‘em would’ve gone down without her constant encouragement.
I’ve only got her for one more day unfortunately, but we’ll be making the most of it again for sure, and I reckon i’ll be taking a well earned rest day come Monday!
I’ve been to some of Europe’s major airports before, but my god, CDG is a city in its own right! Maybe I should’ve checked which terminal she was flying into, coz the place is MASSIVE. After a few rushed texts and phone calls, I finally found her (at the departures drop-off point), and we headed back in time for a quick session at Gorge au Chat, as Steph wanted to hit rock asap and check out the beta on Sa Pelle au Logis.
Fair’s fair, so after I showed her how to get out of the cave, she pointed out a much easier and less powerful way to do the last move, and by the time dark set in we were both pretty psyched to go back in the morning and get it ‘done’.
After a steak dinner, a few beers, and a one armer demo from Mr P, (see the gallery), we hit the sack with an early start in mind – eek!
Given that Steph’s a fan of the ‘Dave Birkett warm-up’ we were straight back to Gorge au Chat and after some fine-tuning, into redpoint mode. Steph’s first go saw her agonisingly close to topping it out, but unfortunately it wasn’t to be today. She’s got it wired though, and it’s purely a matter of time before she sends it now.
After a few false starts myself, I surprised myself by getting to the finishing holds without once feeling fully in control. ‘Tis just the way it seems – sends either feel like a walk in the park, or desperate all the way... and this one was definitely one of the latter! I topped it out though and was well chuffed with my second proper tick of the trip so far. Amazing what a difference it makes having someone to work a problem with.
I’d noticed on Bleau.info the other day that there’s another problem on this block, where you traverse in from the right and take the same finish as Sa Pelle au Logis, ‘Variaspal’. So, after a spending a while figuring the start out, I followed up with the second tick of the day. Awesome!
We were both feeling a bit bushed by now, so we decided to take a stroll up to Rocher Fin, for Steph to have a crack at Memoire d’Outre Tombe, and for me to have another go at the problem opposite – ‘le Nain Vert Sait’.
Steph did really well on Memoire... a problem that felt a little out of reach for her last year, finding that little extra stretch, and getting all the other moves sussed too.
She’ll be back to get this one linked in April for sure (she sends her apologies BTW for sporting the climbing boots and socks look! It's an ankle –scraper, so kinda necessary. Function over fashion, for reeal ayyight).
Mr P had a real good crack too, but he nearly had his chips as he attempted the slopey top out!
After a halting start on le Nain Vert Sait, finding it impossible to get off the ground on the problem that had felt so do-able the other day, I suddenly cracked it, and found myself desperately slapping at the finishing holds and topping it out with all the style of a beached whale. Still, a tick is a tick is a tick. And today i’ve managed to bag myself three Font 7a’s! My most successful day’s climbing ever I reckon, and it’s really cool that I got to share it with Steph, i’m not sure any of ‘em would’ve gone down without her constant encouragement.
I’ve only got her for one more day unfortunately, but we’ll be making the most of it again for sure, and I reckon i’ll be taking a well earned rest day come Monday!
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Two whole days climbing and i’m absolutely shattered!
Wednesday arrived along with the predicted good weather. Clear blue skies, warm sun on my back and plenty of freshly grown skin to dispose of.
I packed up and we headed off to Rocher Guichot to warm up, since it’s right by the car park in Vaudoue – about a 30 second walk in. We pottered round some of the red circuit between drinking tea and napping in the sun. It was too hot to try anything hard really, so we were just killing time until the sun started to drop and the cooler evening temps kicked in, at which point we headed over to Cuvier Rempart.
The plan was to quickly despatch 'Duroxmanie' before heading over for another session on Noir Desir, but it didn’t quite go down like that. I made a couple of changes to the sequence i’d been using in November, but it still wasn’t easy going. It’s quite powerful and fingery climbing with a bit fat sloper to top out on. I’d fallen pretty hard from this a couple of times in the autumn, and although it’s not really highball, if you don’t get over the top of the sloper you’re coming off backwards, which is what happened again this time. Not to be deterred, initially, I kept at it and was getting up to the last move regularly, but just couldn’t make myself slap for the top again, and I didn’t really have enough left in the tank to just overpower it. Another one to go back to. It should go down next time though. On the upside, I tried the moves on the direct start, which didn’t seem too much of a problem, so hopefully when I get the last move sorted there’s two ticks to be had!
We moved on to Noir Desir, armed with an extra pad this time, although to really give it your all I think a spotter will be needed. I sussed out the next move on the left-hand variant, so there’s just one more move to get sorted and it’ll be time to start trying to link it. I reckon it’ll be the crux move though, so don’t hold your breath.
Like I said before Rempart is a beautiful spot, and it felt great spending the evening trying this brilliant problem whilst watching the sun go down. Happy days.
This morning brought cloud but it was still dry so, feeling pretty trashed from yesterday I dragged myself up to Gorge aux Chats. I stretched out a bit and went to work on 'Sa Pelle au Logis', which i’ve never really tried before, but for a brief look last year sometime. At the time I couldn’t figure out how to get out of the cave, but i’ve got it all sussed now, just need to link it.
I wandered round for a crack at 'Rubis sur l’Ongle', which I felt like i’d made surprising progress on back in November, and I was pleased to find myself back at my high point on my second attempt today. Unfortunately the crux hadn’t got much easier, but I did feel a lot stronger on it than before and almost latched the next hold a couple of times. I seemed to be going up a lot more square-on than before, and was using my toe to pull in to the rock rather than just rocking over on it. Still some way to go on this though.
I seem to be using the word ‘progress’ annoyingly often on this blog. I feel like I should be using the word ‘done’ a lot more. I guess it’s just because everything i’ve been trying has been hard, if not slightly beyond me. Maybe i’m grade chasing a bit, but mostly the problems i’m working are ones that i’ve chosen due to their quality too. I don’t really know, but i’m having fun trying them, and that’s the main thing really. Hopefully it will all come together over the next few weeks and i’ll move into ‘crush’ mode. Hopefully.
Anyway, just looking forward to tomorrow now, as Steph’s over for the weekend – Whoop! Whoop! – a friend at last! Can’t wait!
And if the weather holds out for a few more days we might even get something ‘done’!
I packed up and we headed off to Rocher Guichot to warm up, since it’s right by the car park in Vaudoue – about a 30 second walk in. We pottered round some of the red circuit between drinking tea and napping in the sun. It was too hot to try anything hard really, so we were just killing time until the sun started to drop and the cooler evening temps kicked in, at which point we headed over to Cuvier Rempart.
The plan was to quickly despatch 'Duroxmanie' before heading over for another session on Noir Desir, but it didn’t quite go down like that. I made a couple of changes to the sequence i’d been using in November, but it still wasn’t easy going. It’s quite powerful and fingery climbing with a bit fat sloper to top out on. I’d fallen pretty hard from this a couple of times in the autumn, and although it’s not really highball, if you don’t get over the top of the sloper you’re coming off backwards, which is what happened again this time. Not to be deterred, initially, I kept at it and was getting up to the last move regularly, but just couldn’t make myself slap for the top again, and I didn’t really have enough left in the tank to just overpower it. Another one to go back to. It should go down next time though. On the upside, I tried the moves on the direct start, which didn’t seem too much of a problem, so hopefully when I get the last move sorted there’s two ticks to be had!
We moved on to Noir Desir, armed with an extra pad this time, although to really give it your all I think a spotter will be needed. I sussed out the next move on the left-hand variant, so there’s just one more move to get sorted and it’ll be time to start trying to link it. I reckon it’ll be the crux move though, so don’t hold your breath.
Like I said before Rempart is a beautiful spot, and it felt great spending the evening trying this brilliant problem whilst watching the sun go down. Happy days.
This morning brought cloud but it was still dry so, feeling pretty trashed from yesterday I dragged myself up to Gorge aux Chats. I stretched out a bit and went to work on 'Sa Pelle au Logis', which i’ve never really tried before, but for a brief look last year sometime. At the time I couldn’t figure out how to get out of the cave, but i’ve got it all sussed now, just need to link it.
I wandered round for a crack at 'Rubis sur l’Ongle', which I felt like i’d made surprising progress on back in November, and I was pleased to find myself back at my high point on my second attempt today. Unfortunately the crux hadn’t got much easier, but I did feel a lot stronger on it than before and almost latched the next hold a couple of times. I seemed to be going up a lot more square-on than before, and was using my toe to pull in to the rock rather than just rocking over on it. Still some way to go on this though.
I seem to be using the word ‘progress’ annoyingly often on this blog. I feel like I should be using the word ‘done’ a lot more. I guess it’s just because everything i’ve been trying has been hard, if not slightly beyond me. Maybe i’m grade chasing a bit, but mostly the problems i’m working are ones that i’ve chosen due to their quality too. I don’t really know, but i’m having fun trying them, and that’s the main thing really. Hopefully it will all come together over the next few weeks and i’ll move into ‘crush’ mode. Hopefully.
Anyway, just looking forward to tomorrow now, as Steph’s over for the weekend – Whoop! Whoop! – a friend at last! Can’t wait!
And if the weather holds out for a few more days we might even get something ‘done’!
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Rain, rain, rain....
The showers that arrived on Saturday stayed with us into Sunday, but given the need for another rest day I wasn’t too bothered. There’s nothing worse than having to give up a fair-weather day due the exertions of the day before. So I just sat around the gite trying to grow some more skin.
Monday seemed to have brought some brighter weather... until the moment I stepped out of the car at Dame Jouanne. I’d walked down to Buthiers from Maisonbleau on Sunday evening to have a look about and found ‘Magic Bus’ a low roof problem that appeared to be sheltered from the rain for all but the finishing jug, and thought i’d keep it in mind as a wet-weather problem. So I turned around and drove back to Buthiers from Dame Jouanne, and managed to warm up on a couple of damp, but easy enough problems, before heading over to Magic Bus. It’s a very cruxy problem, starting on huge undercuts and finishing on big flattys and jugs, just one hard move to get between the two. I just couldn’t seem to figure it out though, so after a couple of hours with little progress being made, and with regular hail-showers between short sunny spells I sacked it off.
This morning I didn’t even bother getting up until midday as the sound of rain drumming on the windows all night had crushed any ideas of getting out today. Chatting to Neil I picked up a bit of beta on Magic Bus – a thumb-catch coupled with a drop knee may help with the next attempt, but I don’t think i’ll be rushing back to try it until the next rainy day. He also seemed to think that things’ll be brightening up again from tomorrow, so i’m keeping my fingers crossed on that front, and hopefully i’ll have some climbing to blog about tomorrow.
Monday seemed to have brought some brighter weather... until the moment I stepped out of the car at Dame Jouanne. I’d walked down to Buthiers from Maisonbleau on Sunday evening to have a look about and found ‘Magic Bus’ a low roof problem that appeared to be sheltered from the rain for all but the finishing jug, and thought i’d keep it in mind as a wet-weather problem. So I turned around and drove back to Buthiers from Dame Jouanne, and managed to warm up on a couple of damp, but easy enough problems, before heading over to Magic Bus. It’s a very cruxy problem, starting on huge undercuts and finishing on big flattys and jugs, just one hard move to get between the two. I just couldn’t seem to figure it out though, so after a couple of hours with little progress being made, and with regular hail-showers between short sunny spells I sacked it off.
This morning I didn’t even bother getting up until midday as the sound of rain drumming on the windows all night had crushed any ideas of getting out today. Chatting to Neil I picked up a bit of beta on Magic Bus – a thumb-catch coupled with a drop knee may help with the next attempt, but I don’t think i’ll be rushing back to try it until the next rainy day. He also seemed to think that things’ll be brightening up again from tomorrow, so i’m keeping my fingers crossed on that front, and hopefully i’ll have some climbing to blog about tomorrow.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Headed out to Franchard Haute Plaines to the 'Surplomb de la Coquille' boulder yesterday, with the intention of trying the right-hand sit start I came close to last autumn. I started by trying to repeat the standing start but quickly realised i’d worked a lot harder the previous day at Rocher Fin than i’d thought, and the familiar burning sensation flooded my biceps. I had a quick try of the assis moves, but just couldn’t stick the first move. It’s a pretty low percentage move for me – either a long span (which I don’t have) or a powerful deadpoint to a poor crimp. The moves from here into the stand are pretty straightforward, but without the first crux move, or the redpoint crux – the final dynamic rockover, I was going nowhere fast. So after a couple of hours I decided to pack it in and write the day off as a rest day.
On the plus side, I stopped off on the way back for another try at finding Les Nobrilistes, successfully this time! It’s a great looking boulder, standing on its own deep in the woods, but was too damp still to bother trying. I’ll be sure to go back to it later in the trip though.
Having polished off the first book of the trip - Slumdog Millionaire (a bit ‘meh’ if you ask me), along with 5 episodes of Prison Break, I was feeling pretty refreshed this morning, and felt like I needed to check out some new problems.
First on the list was ‘Double/Triple axel’ at Rocher Cassepot du Grises. Having seen Neil do this in his October dose, I was disappointed to find that pulling on was going to be a whole lot harder for me. My negative ape index certainly wasn’t helping here. It seemed I had to start a lot lower to work my way up to the decent holds, and even then I was at full stretch. So after some small progress I decided to quit while I still felt strong and move on to the next problem on the list – ‘Noir Desir’.
Well, what can I say - this problem is AWESOME! It feels like everything I’ve been training for these last few months. Powerful, technical, balancey, beautiful rock, and in a beautiful setting. It’s simply amazing.
There are two variations - the direct and the slightly easier left-hand. They share the same powerful undercut start, into some perfectly sculpted slopey scoops, and although they head in different directions the following moves are fairly similar, the left-hand version being the ideal preparation for the direct.
Again, I made good progress, figuring the start out quickly and feeling strong on the next moves too. But with the landing strewn with small boulders, having no idea which way I was going to come off if I went for it, I decided to return with another pad next time.
I can’t describe how psyched I am to do these problems. And from my experience that’s half the way to doing a problem - having the motivation.
Anyway i’ll stop ranting about it now, but Nick - I seem to remember this being on your tick list in November, and if it wasn’t it should be. I hope you’re ready for a few sessions on it when you come over!
So, happy with the day so far, despite not topping anything out again, I stopped at Carrefour to stock up on breakfast and have a quick coffee.
There’d been a quick shower while I was inside, but since the next problem on the list was in an area i’ve not been to before, I carried on anyway just for a look around.
The problem in question is a prow called ‘Katioushka’ at Les Beorlots. It took a bit of finding, as the boulder is out on its own, and the tree to which the all-important ‘Route de Collet’ sign was attached has fallen over and wasn’t immediately obvious.
Still, I got there eventually, and as expected the rock was absolutely soaking. No chance of even pulling on to try a few moves, but it looks like it’ll climb really nicely, so i’ll definitely be back.
All in all, it’s been a pretty typical trip so far. Some good days, some, well, less good days. Some sun, some rain, some cloud. Lots of getting shut down, a fair bit of progress and a little success. Sore skin and aching muscles. And of course lots of beer - and tonight - the mother of all chilli!
On the plus side, I stopped off on the way back for another try at finding Les Nobrilistes, successfully this time! It’s a great looking boulder, standing on its own deep in the woods, but was too damp still to bother trying. I’ll be sure to go back to it later in the trip though.
Having polished off the first book of the trip - Slumdog Millionaire (a bit ‘meh’ if you ask me), along with 5 episodes of Prison Break, I was feeling pretty refreshed this morning, and felt like I needed to check out some new problems.
First on the list was ‘Double/Triple axel’ at Rocher Cassepot du Grises. Having seen Neil do this in his October dose, I was disappointed to find that pulling on was going to be a whole lot harder for me. My negative ape index certainly wasn’t helping here. It seemed I had to start a lot lower to work my way up to the decent holds, and even then I was at full stretch. So after some small progress I decided to quit while I still felt strong and move on to the next problem on the list – ‘Noir Desir’.
Well, what can I say - this problem is AWESOME! It feels like everything I’ve been training for these last few months. Powerful, technical, balancey, beautiful rock, and in a beautiful setting. It’s simply amazing.
There are two variations - the direct and the slightly easier left-hand. They share the same powerful undercut start, into some perfectly sculpted slopey scoops, and although they head in different directions the following moves are fairly similar, the left-hand version being the ideal preparation for the direct.
Again, I made good progress, figuring the start out quickly and feeling strong on the next moves too. But with the landing strewn with small boulders, having no idea which way I was going to come off if I went for it, I decided to return with another pad next time.
I can’t describe how psyched I am to do these problems. And from my experience that’s half the way to doing a problem - having the motivation.
Anyway i’ll stop ranting about it now, but Nick - I seem to remember this being on your tick list in November, and if it wasn’t it should be. I hope you’re ready for a few sessions on it when you come over!
So, happy with the day so far, despite not topping anything out again, I stopped at Carrefour to stock up on breakfast and have a quick coffee.
There’d been a quick shower while I was inside, but since the next problem on the list was in an area i’ve not been to before, I carried on anyway just for a look around.
The problem in question is a prow called ‘Katioushka’ at Les Beorlots. It took a bit of finding, as the boulder is out on its own, and the tree to which the all-important ‘Route de Collet’ sign was attached has fallen over and wasn’t immediately obvious.
Still, I got there eventually, and as expected the rock was absolutely soaking. No chance of even pulling on to try a few moves, but it looks like it’ll climb really nicely, so i’ll definitely be back.
All in all, it’s been a pretty typical trip so far. Some good days, some, well, less good days. Some sun, some rain, some cloud. Lots of getting shut down, a fair bit of progress and a little success. Sore skin and aching muscles. And of course lots of beer - and tonight - the mother of all chilli!
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Memoire d'Outre Tombe
One of the good things about being out here for so long is that the need to climb every minute of every day, whatever the conditions isn’t quite so overpowering. There hadn’t been any more rain overnight by the look of it, but the fields behind Maisonbleau were covered in frost and fog.
Normally I’d have been out like a shot flailing around on semi-dry rock, but today I could wait until things had dried out a little before heading out. So, I pottered round the gite all morning waiting for it to clear and praying that it didn’t start raining again.
Knowing that Rocher Fin is quite a quick drying crag, up on a hill; And knowing how close i’d come to doing Memoire d’Outre Tombe the other day, I decided to head back, while the beta was still fresh in my mind.
I got up there about 15:00, and feeling refreshed from the rest day yesterday, I just warmed up by doing the top-out from the lip of the roof – easy. I did it again, starting from the crux moves and topped out once more, then set up the camera, having remembered to put a memory card in it today, and shuffled to the back of the cave to try it from the start. A little foot slip quickly corrected, and I was topping out the first of the problems on my tick list, and also my first of the grade in the forest – sweet!
I had a quick play on the right-hand variant, which tops out with a powerful throw and a razor-sharp crimp, so after a few goes I sacked it off and started to play on the problem just opposite – a nice wall on slopey pinches. I made pretty good progress on it and thought it might go down in one session, but after setting up the camera again I bailed from the top in spectacular style, and then split a tip on my next attempt, so decided to call it a day – another one to come back for.
So i’m now sat in the gite, supping a nice cold victory beer, very happy to have got my first decent tick of the trip. Hopefully i’ll keep ‘em coming!
Also a quick thankyou to my buddy Mr P. who’s been egging me on all week. Admittedly his spotting skills ain’t up to much, but he’s good to have around!
Normally I’d have been out like a shot flailing around on semi-dry rock, but today I could wait until things had dried out a little before heading out. So, I pottered round the gite all morning waiting for it to clear and praying that it didn’t start raining again.
Knowing that Rocher Fin is quite a quick drying crag, up on a hill; And knowing how close i’d come to doing Memoire d’Outre Tombe the other day, I decided to head back, while the beta was still fresh in my mind.
I got up there about 15:00, and feeling refreshed from the rest day yesterday, I just warmed up by doing the top-out from the lip of the roof – easy. I did it again, starting from the crux moves and topped out once more, then set up the camera, having remembered to put a memory card in it today, and shuffled to the back of the cave to try it from the start. A little foot slip quickly corrected, and I was topping out the first of the problems on my tick list, and also my first of the grade in the forest – sweet!
I had a quick play on the right-hand variant, which tops out with a powerful throw and a razor-sharp crimp, so after a few goes I sacked it off and started to play on the problem just opposite – a nice wall on slopey pinches. I made pretty good progress on it and thought it might go down in one session, but after setting up the camera again I bailed from the top in spectacular style, and then split a tip on my next attempt, so decided to call it a day – another one to come back for.
So i’m now sat in the gite, supping a nice cold victory beer, very happy to have got my first decent tick of the trip. Hopefully i’ll keep ‘em coming!
Also a quick thankyou to my buddy Mr P. who’s been egging me on all week. Admittedly his spotting skills ain’t up to much, but he’s good to have around!
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